QRF, hoping to convert them, but as with most QRF infantry IMO the sculpting wasn't great (legs far too short compared to body, low detail level), & the Milans themselves looked about half the size they should be. So I spent a bit of time converting the 75mm recoilless rifles from Peter Pig into Milans, shortening the barrels, filing off other details, & cutting the targetting scopes from the QRF ATGMs to stick onto my scratch-builds. Unfortunately I only had 3 QRF Milans in the pack, so I that's why I need to Green Stuff a fourth scope. Also, I did head-swaps for berets with several figures* (mainly the kneeling ATGM crew). The figures are a mix of Peter Pig 'Soviet', & converted PLO figures, & a converted African gunman, all from the AK47 range; plus a Rebel Minis militia figure (kneeling, wearing a plain khaki coat & kepi).
This armour-hunting force (for Crossfire in a Lebanon '82 setting) consists of a a Platoon Commander stand, & 4 'hunter-killer' commando teams, each consisting of a Squad Leader stand, an infantry stand, & an ATGM stand. I've kept markings low-key - each stand has 1 - 4 vertical stripes on it's rear side, denoting which squad that it is part of. The main infantry stands are heavily armed, each carrying 2 RPGs, an RPD, & an SA-7 Grail anti-aircraft launcher. In Crossfire terms, these will benefit from a better-than-average 'bazooka' shot once per Initiative phase, & some sort of abstract AA effect. The smaller ATGM teams will probably be played as only 2D regular firepower, but have a much more effective anti-armour attack.
I am partway through assembling an Mil Mi-8 'Hip' transport helicopter, which will be capable of carrying this whole platoon! 15mm-scale helos are very fiddly through... I am considering replacing the fragile, bendy metal rotors with discs of semi-transparent plastic or similar.
* = The Peter Pig head-swap system is very straightforward, & well-worth the effort of conversion. Peter Pig sells a very wide variety of spare heads, which come on sprues, each with a long pin that can be snipped to the required length. To remove the existing head, simply grip it using a pair of needle-nose pliers, & twist firmly one way, they the other, until it pops off. Smooth the resulting break if necessary with a brief bit of filing, & then drill a hole where the neck would be, down into the body. I find the GW hand drill to be the perfect size for the spare head pins. After testing the replacement head's pin length against the drilled hole, put a dab of glue in the hole, & slot the head carefully into place.