Friday, 23 October 2015


More vehicles for my rural English zombocalypse - two tractors!  They are about the right size for my 15mm-scale figures, & should do nicely as static scenery, or even as drivable vehicles in games of Ambush Z.  Here is a John Deere 7530, & a Claas Ares - both types that are commonly seen on the roads & farmland around where I live. They are made by Siku, & are Models 1009 & 1008 respectively.  They cost me £2 each from a garden centre toy department.  These will definitely need painting with plenty of mud.

Tuesday, 20 October 2015

Civilian vehicles

It's not really modelling, but here are some civilian vehicles for my zombie apocalypse survivors.  I've bought a few £2 toy vehicles for my 15mm-scale 'rural England' themed collection.  They are approximately the right scale - good enough for tabletop gaming.  Here are a Range Rover & a DHL delivery van, perfect for out-running (or running-down!) the infected/undead.  The Range Rover is made by Corgi (In The City #21), & the delivery van is by Siku (model 1085).  I found both for sale in the toy section of a local garden centre.  I'll probably add some weathering & splashed mud to these vehicles once I finish painting all these bloody zombies...  The figures shown are a mix of Rebel Minis & Khurasan Miniatures.

Sunday, 4 October 2015

Syrian commando platoon

I've finally finished my 15mm-scale 1980s Syrian commando platoon... (well, apart from one of the ATGMs needing a scratch-sculpt targeting scope, & the radioman needing an aerial!) . This is a rarity for me - a completed force.  It helps that the figures are only 15mm tall, but the variety of camouflage & kit detailing added to the time they took.  I had purchased some modern German infantry with Milan ATGMs from QRF, hoping to convert them, but as with most QRF infantry IMO the sculpting wasn't great (legs far too short compared to body, low detail level), & the Milans themselves looked about half the size they should be.  So I spent a bit of time converting the 75mm recoilless rifles from Peter Pig into Milans, shortening the barrels, filing off other details, & cutting the targetting scopes from the QRF ATGMs to stick onto my scratch-builds.  Unfortunately I only had 3 QRF Milans in the pack, so I that's why I need to Green Stuff a fourth scope.  Also, I did head-swaps for berets with several figures* (mainly the kneeling ATGM crew).  The figures are a mix of Peter Pig 'Soviet', & converted PLO figures, & a converted African gunman, all from the AK47 range; plus a Rebel Minis militia figure (kneeling, wearing a plain khaki coat & kepi).

This armour-hunting force (for Crossfire in a Lebanon '82 setting) consists of a a Platoon Commander stand, & 4 'hunter-killer' commando teams, each consisting of a Squad Leader stand, an infantry stand, & an ATGM stand.  I've kept markings low-key - each stand has 1 - 4 vertical stripes on it's rear side, denoting which squad that it is part of.  The main infantry stands are heavily armed, each carrying 2 RPGs, an RPD, & an SA-7 Grail anti-aircraft launcher.  In Crossfire terms, these will benefit from a better-than-average 'bazooka' shot once per Initiative phase, & some sort of abstract AA effect.  The smaller ATGM teams will probably be played as only 2D regular firepower, but have a much more effective anti-armour attack.

I am partway through assembling an Mil Mi-8 'Hip' transport helicopter, which will be capable of carrying this whole platoon!  15mm-scale helos are very fiddly through...  I am considering replacing the fragile, bendy metal rotors with discs of semi-transparent plastic or similar.

* = The Peter Pig head-swap system is very straightforward, & well-worth the effort of conversion.  Peter Pig sells a very wide variety of spare heads, which come on sprues, each with a long pin that can be snipped to the required length.  To remove the existing head, simply grip it using a pair of needle-nose pliers, & twist firmly one way, they the other, until it pops off.  Smooth the resulting break if necessary with a brief bit of filing, & then drill a hole where the neck would be, down into the body.  I find the GW hand drill to be the perfect size for the spare head pins. After testing the replacement head's pin length against the drilled hole, put a dab of glue in the hole, & slot the head carefully into place.